Machine for sewing boots and shoes.



A. WARD & A. S. GENT. MACHINE FOR SEWING BOOTS AND SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED OGT. 24, 1911.

Patented June 10, 1913.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

fizz/512727119:-

COLUMBIA FLANOGRAPH cO..wASiuNGToN, 0. c4

A. WARD & A. S. GENT. v MACHINE FOE SEWING BOOTS AND SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED OUT. 24, 1911.

Patented June 10, 1913.

3 SHEETSSBEET 2.

[raven/271 5. m- M COLUMBIA PLANOGRAFH 1:13., WASHINGTON, n. c.

A. WARD & A. S. GENT.

MACHINE FOR SEWING BOOTS AND SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED 00124, 1911,

Patented June 10, 1913.

' 3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH c0., WASHINGTON, D. c.

UNTTE STATES PATENT @FFTQE.

ARTHUR WARD AND ALBERT SAMUEL GENT, OF NORTHAMPTON, ENGLAND, ASSIGN- ORSTO THE UNIVERSAL SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY LIMITED, OF NORTHAMP- TON,ENGLAND.

MACHINE FOR SEWING BOOTS AND SHOES.

Application filed October 2 1, 1911.

To a?! 10710711 it may concern.

Be it known that we, ARTHUR \VAnn and ALBERT SAMUEL GENT, formerly of 27York road, Northampton, England, both subjects of the King of GreatBritain, and residents of Cleveland Works, Cleveland Road, Northampton,England, have invented new and useful Improvements in Machines forSewing Boots and Shoes, of which the follow ing is a specification.

The present invention has reference to chain stitch machines for sewingwelted boots and shoes and turnshoes and the object of the invention isto improve the construction of such machines so that they will work atan improved rate of speed.

In rapidly driven sewing machines for the above purpose difficulties arefound to arise in connection with the thread measur ing mechanism whichis apt to put an undue strain upon and break the thread.

The present invention is directed to the improvement of the machine sothat the thread shall be properly measured and laid in the needle, andthe stitches tightened.

The improvements will now be described and the points of noveltyhereinafter pointed out in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 shows a side elevation partly insection, of part of a welt sewing machine embodying our improvements,Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the opposite side of the machine. Fig. 3shows detachably the striker and its connections and the tappet, andFigs. 1 and 5 are enlarged front and sectional elevations of the brakewheel.

Referring to Figs. 1, 1 and 5:-1 is the brake wheel over which thethread 2 passes from the wax pot (not shown in the drawings, being ofusual construction). This brake wheel 1 which occupies the position inthe machine usually occupied by the tensionwheel, diflers therefrom inthat it is mounted to turn freely upon a boss 3 bolted to the framework4 of the machine. This boss 3 is formed with a loose segmental portion 5and between the two parts 3 and 5, and resting in recesses formed in thepart 3, are springs 6 tending to force the two parts 3 and 5 apart, andagainst the inside of the brake wheel 1 mounted thereon. The boss 3 isalso provided with an outer threaded portion? upon which is mounted aIlOIl-IGX" Oluble washer 8 and nuts 9, for holding the Specification ofLetters Eatent.

brake wheel 1 in position.

Patented June 10, 1913.

Serial No. 656,538.

This arrange ment allows a free movement of the brake wheel 1 and at thesame time owing to the spring boss bearing upon the inside thereof, putsa slight friction thereon, sufficient to prevent the wheel overrunningwhen the thread is being intermittently drawn off. It also allows of avery free movement of the thread when drawn upon by the measuringmechanism to be presently described. The thread passes from the brakewheel 1 to a thread measuring device, for measuring off the desiredquantity of thread required for each stitch according to the thicknessof the work (seam substance) being sewn. Attached to the framework ofthe machine and in a line with the path of thread 2 are two pulleywheels 10 and 11, and intermediate between the two pulley wheels 10 and11, and on the opposite side of the thread 2 is situate a verticallymovable pulley wheel 12. Upon the welt guide slide 13, which may be ofthe usual construction, is mounted in suitable bearings a shorthorizontal shaft 14 carrying at one end a crank pin 15, and at the otherend a tappet, or pivoted lever 16 see Figs. 2 and 3. The crank pin 15 iscon.- nected to a slide 17 upon which is mounted the pulley wheel 12above mentioned. The slide 17 is guided in its movements by the guidingpiece 18 which is pivotally mounted in the framework of the machine asat 18*,

see Figs. 1 and 3. The tappet 16 is held in its normal position by meansof the spring 19 attached thereto and to the welt guide slide 13. Thetappet 16 is operated by a striker 20 which has at its back end a boss21 which is pivoted on a stud fixed in a bell crank lever 22 which ispivoted on a stud 23 fixed in a convenient position on the main frame.Also fixed conveniently on the main frame is a stud 24 on which ismounted a, cam lever 25 which engages by means of a cam roll 26 with thecam 27. This cam lever 25 is connected to the bell crank lever 22 bymeans of a link 28 connected at either end by studs 29 and 30. It willthus be seen that at each revolution of the cam 2'? the striker 20 willbe given a thrust due to the cam lever 25 actuating the bell crank lever22, thus striking the tappet 16. This in turn rocks the crank pin 15 anddraws down the slide 17 carrying the pulley wheel 12. In order to enablethe desired quantity of thread to be drawn from the wax pot it isclamped in advance of the pulley wheel 12 by means of the clampingdevice 31. This device 31 is actuated by a rocking shaft 32, cam lever33, cam roll 34: and cam Thus it will be seen that the clamping devicewhen rocked bears on the roll 11 and holds the thread. securely duringthe downward movement of the pulley wheel 12.

lt will be noted that the distance between the forward point of thestriker 20 in its normal position, and the tappet 16, is a variable oneaccording to the thickness of the work being sewn and that therefore therange of movement of the pulley wheel 12 will also be a variable one; inconsequence it will draw a longer or shorter length of thread from thewaX pot as circumstances require. After passing the measuring clevicethe thread 2 then passes to a fixed pulley wheel 36 and around thespring-actuated auxiliary take-up 37 to the usual take-up 3S, and thencethrough the looper 39 to the work as usual.

In Fig. 2, as is the lever supporting the looper 39, and 19 is thethread finger. ldounted upon the arm 50 of the machine, which armcarries the usual cam levers, is a bracket 51. This bracket 5]. isprovided with a cylindrical portion 52 containing a plunger 52*, acompression spring 53, and an adjusting screw 54. The upper end of thelooper lever 48 has upon its outer side a. cup-shaped socket 55 situatedapproximately opposite similar cup shaped socket 4 56 formed in the endof the plunger 52*.

The two cup shaped sockets and 56 are connected. by a double ballconnection 57, in such a manner that the spring 53 tends to force thelooper lever roll 58 against the surface of its cam while at the sametime it allows the looper lever to swing freely under the action of itsroll 59 when operated by its cam groove. This method of mounting thespring for keeping the looper levr rolls 58 and 59 against theirrespective cam surfaces, insures the said rolls accurately following thepaths of the said cams, and obviates the jumping of the rolls, sofrequently a source of defective action of the machine when running at ahigh rate of speed and also allows of a new spring being rapidly andeasily inserted if desired without dismantling other parts of themachine.

The operation of the machine is as follows :To start sewing the work isheld in position against the boot rest guide and the thread passedaround the thread finger as usual. The pricker then enters the work, theboot rest guide is unlocked, and the welt guide slide 13 is alsounlocked and Qoples of this patent may be obtained for pushed back byits cam lever. The pricker then feeds the work and causes it to come indirect line with the needle. The welt guide slide 13 is then allowed byits cam lever to come back to the work and together i the pulley wheel11 and the pulley wheel 12- is then operated by means of the striker 20and tappet 16 to measure a length of thread for the next stitch. Whenthe and is right back, the threadfinger again takes the thread and thelooper 39 with the thread circles the needle. At the same time thechannel guide and the pricker are moved back for a fresh feed. Theneedle then retires carrying the loop through the work. The prickeragain enters and feeds the work for the next stitch. The needle againenters the work, through the loop already around it, to take a freshloop from the looper 39. The take-up 3S and auxiliary take-up 37 take upthe slack thread and tighten the aforesaid loop around the needle and soset the stitch. The new loop is then drawn through the work by theneedle and the above cycle of operations repeated. What we claim anddesire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is 1. In a chainstitch machine for sewing welted boots and shoes and turnshoes, a threadmeasuring device and means for regulating the same, comprising a weltguide slide, a tappet carried by the welt guide slide for operating thesaid measuring device and a striker for operating the tappet, thearrangement being such that the dis tance of the tappet from the strikermay be varied automatically by the thickness of the work, substantiallyas described.

2. In a chain stitch machine for the Durpo-se specified, a threadmeasuring device comprising two fixed pulley wheels, a movable pulleywheel acting intermcdiate of the fixed pulley wheels, a clamping devicefor the thread, a welt guide slide, a tappet mounted on the welt guideslide for operating the movable pulley wheel, a striker for operatingthe tappet and means for operating the striker, substantially asdescribed.

In testimony whereof we have signed our names to this specification inthe presence of two subscribing witnesses.

ARTHUR IVARD. ALBERT SAMUEL GENT.

Witnesses C. B. LiDnoN, R. lViLLIAMs.

five cents each, y ess ng the Gore-missions at n s Washington, 1). G.

